![]() I could not justify buying the GM tool.īefore pulling, make sure the balls are distributed around the circle. ![]() The socket in the middle is, I think, 37mm bulked out with some painters tape to keep the jaws from slipping inward. For the bridge I used part of a Harbor Freight wheel bearing puller kit (the black steel parts). I used a Harbor Freight 3 jaw puller (the 6" one). Sharing pictures from when I modified a bearing puller to do this job. I definitely became more familiar with the car! I can provide a photo or two if requested. A lot of time was spent waiting for tools to arrive. I'm retired and motivated by fixed income. These tools I purchased from eBay and GM: DT-47865 puller, J-45124-1 puller bridge, and J-22928-B seal installer. It's important to insure the bearing is parallel 0.95 - 1.2 mm. I cold soaked the bearing to make it easier. It's used to tap the new bearing into place. The seal installer tool (a hollow aluminum cylinder) it's dimensioned to fit the bearing. It's recommended that the teflon seal (on the shaft) be replaced. This is possible only after loosening frame joints.Īfter removing the case cover, the puller and puller-bridge is used to ease the bearing off. The "frame member" directly under the case cover needs to be moved as well. I carefully lowered ICE/AT in a position to gain access to the cover. Removed inverter, disconnected the top AT mount, AT linkage, steering shaft and left strut. I raised and supported the car at jack points (can't use the frame). But it requires lowering the ICE/AT and loosening the frame joints. At first glance the cover may appear accessible. ![]() The main challenge is removing the transmission case cover. ![]() It also assumes a knowledge of safety concerns and fluid drains (High Voltage, car support etc.):įor background info on the problem see "bearing failure FAQ" in this forum. This is only an overview of the fix and not a detailed procedure. ![]()
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